How to Shorten a Dress with a Sewing Machine

Why Sew a Hem Instead of Using Tape or Fusing

A sewn hem is the most reliable way to change a dress length. The folded edge is held in place by thread, so it survives wear, washing, and pressing better than tape or adhesive. A machine-stitched hem also gives you a choice of finishes: a visible topstitch, a mostly hidden blind hem, or a narrow rolled edge.

Hemming is also one of the easiest alterations you can do at home. You can remove the stitches, press the fabric again, and try a new length if your first mark is off. Before you begin, look at dress hem finishes to decide how you want the finished edge to appear, and check dress alteration potential to understand how much a dress can be changed.

Keeping a dress you already own is a conservation choice as well. The US EPA reports that 11.3 million tons of textiles in municipal solid waste were landfilled in 2018, and the recycling rate for all textiles was 14.7 percent. Shortening and re-hemming a dress keeps it in use instead of sending it to the waste stream. For general questions about government services, USA.gov can point you to official information.

What You Need to Hem a Dress

Cotton is a forgiving fabric for a first hemming project. CottonWorks notes that cotton naturally offers benefits such as heat and moisture regulation. Those same natural properties help cotton hold a pressed fold well, which makes the sewing step more predictable.

If you do not want to use a sewing machine at all, you can use a no sew method such as hemming without sewing. For a permanent change, the sewing machine method below is the better option.

• A sewing machine in good working order, with a straight stitch and, ideally, a blind hem stitch.
• An iron and a pressing cloth for setting the fold before you sew.
• Fabric chalk, a fabric marker, or pins for marking the new length.
• A measuring tape, a clear ruler or hem gauge, and a seam ripper for opening the original hem.
• Matching thread; for a blind hem, use thread that blends with the fabric.

Choose the New Length

Put on the dress with the shoes you plan to wear. Stand naturally with your weight equally on both feet, and have a helper mark the desired new length with pins or chalk at the hem. Check the marks at the front, back, and sides so the line follows the dress, not a slanted path.

If the dress has a high-low, curved, or asymmetric hem, keep that shape in mind. You can shorten the dress while preserving the shape by measuring down from the existing hem rather than measuring up from the floor. For an even straight hem, measuring from the floor is simpler.

Look at our dress length guide to decide where you want the hem to fall, and check dress length by height and dress hem shapes before you cut or fold.

Measure and Prepare the Dress

Lay the dress flat with the side seams aligned. Smooth the fabric so the grain is straight; if the dress is twisted, the hem will not hang evenly. Measure the distance from the current hem to your marked line at several points around the dress, then adjust the marks until that distance is the same everywhere.

If the dress has a lining, treat the outer shell and the lining as two separate layers. The lining should end slightly higher than the outer fabric so it does not peek out. Our dress lining and opacity article explains how linings sit inside the dress.

Before you sew, remove any old hem thread with a seam ripper and press the crease out of the original hem. This gives you a clean working edge and, if you need more fabric, makes the full length available. Look at the existing hem allowance so you know how much fabric you have to work with.

Fold and Press Before You Sew

Decide how much fabric to turn up. For a narrow, invisible finish, fold just the raw edge under and sew close to that fold. For a wider hem, mark the fold line at the desired new length, fold the fabric to the wrong side, and pin the hem in place.

Press the fold with an iron, using a pressing cloth for delicate fabric. Pressing sets the crease and makes the sewing machine easier to guide. For a flared or A-line dress, the outer edge is longer than the inner fold, so ease in the extra fabric by running a gathering stitch along the raw edge or pinning small pleats before you stitch.

For more on how folds behave, see dress fabric drape and dress hem allowance.

Stitch the Hem

Choose a stitch that matches the fabric. A straight stitch works for most woven fabrics, including cotton, and creates a neat topstitched hem when placed close to the folded edge. A blind hem stitch is better when you want the thread to be mostly hidden on the outside.

For knit dresses, use a stretch stitch, a narrow zigzag, or a twin needle so the hem can stretch with the fabric. Our knit versus woven fabric article explains why the fabric behavior changes the stitch choice.

After sewing, finish the raw edge so it does not fray. Options include trimming with pinking shears, overcasting, or turning the raw edge under. See dress seam finishes for ways to keep the inside of the hem tidy.

Press the Finished Hem and Try It On

Press the hem again from the wrong side, then lightly from the right side with a pressing cloth if the fabric needs it. Remove any loose threads and check that the stitching line is straight and the hem lies flat. If the fabric puckers, the stitch may be too tight or the hem may need to be eased more evenly.

Try the dress on with the same shoes and look at the hem from the front, back, and both sides. If one section dips, mark it, unpick that part, and resew. A machine-stitched hem can be adjusted several times, so plan to check the length before you trim away extra fabric.

Shortening a dress is one of the easiest ways to refresh a silhouette. If you decide the final length does not work, you can use a work dress guide to compare silhouettes before your next purchase.

Tricky Fabrics and Silhouettes

Some dresses are harder to shorten with a sewing machine than others. Dresses with a full gathered skirt, a train, or a decorative hem band require extra planning. If the decorative band is part of the design, removing it may change the look, so test the fold on a hidden part of the hem before you commit.

Sequined, beaded, or heavily embroidered hems are best left to a professional or treated with a hem that does not require cutting through embellishment. Delicate fabrics such as chiffon and lace need a narrower hem and a lighter press. If the fabric frays easily, finish the raw edge carefully.

Before choosing a dress, consider how much hem allowance it has and how the fabric will behave. Look for dresses with clean hems and fabric that responds well to pressing, then plan the alteration step by step.

What to pick for your use

Questions

Can I shorten any dress with a sewing machine?

Most dresses can be shortened with a sewing machine if the fabric can be pressed and stitched. Woven cotton is a forgiving choice. Dresses with heavy embellishment, a decorative hem band, or a lining made from a very different fabric may need a different approach, and the lining should be hemmed separately so it does not show below the outer dress.

Do I need to cut the fabric before I sew?

Not always. If the original hem allowance is large enough, you can simply unfold the old hem, press the new fold, and sew. Cut away fabric only when the extra length makes the hem too deep or too bulky, and always leave enough fabric for a clean folded edge.

What stitch should I use to hem a knit dress?

Use a stretch stitch, a narrow zigzag, or a twin needle on a knit dress. A plain straight stitch may break or cause the hem to pucker because knit fabric needs to stretch.

How do I keep the hem even?

Have someone mark the new length while you stand straight, then lay the dress flat and measure from the existing hem to the marks. Adjust until the distance is the same at the front, back, and sides. Press the fold well before stitching.

What if the dress has a lining?

Hem the outer dress and the lining separately. Make the lining slightly shorter than the outer fabric so it does not peek out below the hem. This keeps the inside of the dress comfortable and prevents the lining from showing.

Why does the hem look wavy after I sew?

A wavy hem is usually caused by too much fabric being eased into the fold. For flared or A-line dresses, the lower edge is longer than the fold line, so you need to ease the extra fullness evenly before pressing and stitching. Lowering the stitch tension or using a slightly longer stitch can also help.